Churches of Goreme | Elmali Church, Church of Barbara, Dark Church   

The soft rocks formed from the lava of a volcanic eruption 2000 years ago have made it possible for the people of Goreme, in the region of Cappadocia, to carve out homes, churches and monasteries in the rock faces. The cave churches in this area contain many examples of Byzantine art from the post iconoclastic period and are a unique artistic achievement from this age.

The restoration of the Church of the Buckle (Tokalı Kilise) was finished in the 1980’s. It is the biggest church in Göreme and contains frescoes in the provincial style. There are 11th century frescoes in the metropolitan style and representations of the twelve apostles, the saints and stories from the life of Jesus. The Church of the Buckle is made up of four chambers and has a crypt located underneath the nave.

The Apple Church (Elmalı Kilise) was built in about 1050 AD and the name is said to refer to a picture on the dome which shows the Archangel Michael holding a red colored orb. The four pillars that support the church’s central dome bear the sign of the Greek cross. Although restoration has been completed, the paint still continues to fall away and this has revealed some interesting earlier frescoes underneath.

The Egyptian Saint Barbara was tortured and killed by her father for practicing Christianity. The Church of Saint Barbara (Barbara Kilise) is dedicated to her and contains frescoes depicting Christ on a throne and geometric patterns painted in red ochre. A painting of a locust being warded away by two crosses is said to represent evil. Saint George and Saint Theodore are also featured in the frescoes; the two of them on horseback fighting against a dragon and a snake. The Church of Saint Barbara has the impression that it was built using cut stone because of the red ochre lines that the monks drew on the walls.

Although it was used to house pigeons until the 1950’s, the Dark Church (Karanlık Kilise) houses the best preserved examples of 11th century Byzantine art in the whole of Cappadocia and can be visited for an extra fee.

The Church with Sandals (Çarıklı Kilise) has a cross floor plan and takes it name from footprints found at the bottom of a frescoe depicting the ascension of Christ at the entrance to the church. The footprints are the source for many myths and legends.

The open air museum where these churches can be found is located a couple of kilometers away from the village of Göreme on the road to Ürgüp and can be reached easily by foot.

The village of Göreme is also well worth a visit as some of the locals still inhabit and work in the cave dwellings. It is possible to stay in Göreme in hotels carved out of the rocks but of course at a premium price.

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